6 Dec 2024, 14:43Adina Lupu
Pastor Claudiu Popescu's Follow-Up Interview on His 35-Day Himalayan Expedition
This follow-up interview with Pastor Claudiu Popescu delves into his recent 35-day Himalayan expedition, where he shares insights from his challenging journey, including his trek to Tilicho Lake, the ascent of Thorong-La Pass, and the climb of Tilicho Peak. He also reflects on the spiritual and personal transformations that took place during the expedition.
“Behind every triumphant mountaintop victory, there’s always a steep climb filled with many prayers, tears, sweat, blisters, and often much passing of time.” – Melody Mason, My Single Joy.
In a previous interview before his departure, Pastor Claudiu Popescu shared his plans to trek to Everest Base Camp (5,346 m), climb Mera Peak (6,476 m), and take on Mount Pumori (7,161 m). In this follow-up interview, he shares highlights from his experience trekking in the Himalayas.
Q: After over a year of preparation, training, and careful planning for the highly anticipated expedition itinerary, the first week in Nepal didn’t quite go as planned. What happened, and how did you respond to seeing your plans fall apart?
A: Exactly, a few hours after we landed in Kathmandu, it started to rain. What I initially thought would be a shower quickly intensified into heavy torrential rain that lasted for three days and caused the most severe flooding in the last 50 years. Even the locals told us they had never seen anything like it, with many casualties and much of the infrastructure being destroyed. The weather had a major impact on our plans, as we had to delay our flight to Lukla Airport, the starting point of our expedition into the Everest region, for four days. We learned that not every flight or helicopter that takes off can land in Lukla. Weather conditions can change rapidly, and many flights are either cancelled or turn back after failing to land. I spent four days in an overcrowded airport, full of stranded people, all hoping to catch a flight. Eventually, we were able to board a helicopter, but unfortunately, it couldn’t land due to high winds. The feeling of defeat began to undermine our team’s enthusiasm.
Q: After several attempts to stick to your original plans, things had to change. What alternative route did you ultimately take for your expedition?
A: After losing four buffer days, some members of our team realised that we were running out of time if we didn’t look for an alternative. It was difficult as some of us wanted to wait a few more days to catch a flight, while others didn’t have the luxury of extra time. Our guide gave us the option of an equally challenging route on the Annapurna Circuit, crossing a unique combination of high altitude, varied landscapes, climates, ecosystems, and mountain ranges, as well as many different Nepali communities, making it a photographer’s paradise. The biggest reward would be reaching Tilicho Lake at 4,919 m, the highest-altitude lake in the world, Thorong La Pass, considered the highest pass in the world at 5,416 m, and Tilicho Peak at 7,134 m.
Q: Life in the Himalayas must be very different from what we are used to here in Europe. What can you share about how people live, their occupations, and culture?
A: Indeed, it’s a totally different world. First, life in the Himalayan villages is rough due to the mountain terrain, which is prone to landslides, making it very difficult to build roads and grow crops. There is also a reliance on food brought from the lowlands by donkeys and yaks. However, it is rich in culture and tradition. Nepal’s population is predominantly Hindu in the main cities and lowlands, and Buddhist in the Himalayan/Tibet region, but I also came across a significant Muslim community. People live very simple lives, but they seem content and happy. In five weeks, I didn’t encounter a single beggar. What really intrigued me, even during my first visit to Nepal with ADRA UK in 2015, was how safe I felt, even in large cities like Kathmandu. Nepal is considered one of the poorest countries in the world, with very poor infrastructure, low wages, and high unemployment. In the Western world, we usually link poverty with high crime rates, but this is not the case in Nepal. I was astonished by the large number of solo trekkers from around the world who chose Nepal for its safety. It’s a culture that respects other religions and is not known for religious conflict.
Q: What is the main religion in Nepal and how do people in the Himalayas worship?
A: As I mentioned previously, Hinduism is the main religion, with pockets of Muslims, Christians, and animists, as Nepal is considered a Hindu state. However, most people living in the Himalayan region are Buddhist. One interesting feature of life in Nepal is that, as imposed by the government, there is a six-day working week with only Saturday off. Sunday is a regular working day. Many people attend temple or church services on the Saturdays.
Q: Your first challenge was to reach Tilicho Lake. How long did it take you to get there, and what was the most challenging part of the experience?
A: The first leg of the expedition was the departure from Kathmandu to Besisahar, the starting point of our trek, at 760m into the Himalayas. We then trekked to Chame, Manang, and up to Tilicho Lake at 4,919m. The trek took about 10 days. This part was the mildest and most serene in terms of terrain. We trekked roughly 8-9 hours per day, starting at 7 a.m., with a 1-hour lunch break. En route to 4,900m, we stayed in so-called tea houses. Some of them were pretty decent, with beds and common toilets, where we could order set dishes like porridge, eggs, dal bhat (the traditional Nepali dish — Dal Bhat power 24 hours!), pasta, and soup, and also have a shower (which, at best, was lukewarm but mostly ice-cold). As we began to reach higher altitudes, the standards of the tea houses began to decline. The biggest challenge of the first leg of the expedition was getting closer to Tilicho Lake. As we gained altitude, the weather became more unpredictable, the temperature dropped suddenly, and the wind cut through our thick down jackets. The golden rule for a successful ascent is to be at the peak by sunrise when the wind is milder, and you can absorb the quietness of the surroundings and witness the transition from darkness to light. This meant trekking from 3 a.m. on the last day of the ascent, but the experience was transformational.
Q: After completing Tilicho Lake, you had to rest and prepare for Thorong La Pass. One of the most important aspects of a successful expedition is being well acclimatised. What is acclimatisation, why is it important, and what did you do to ensure you were fit to continue your expedition?
A: Altitude sickness is the most common condition among climbers at high altitudes. The higher you climb, the harder it is for your body to get oxygen due to the fact that there is less of it at higher altitudes. The heart rate increases, you have to breathe faster and faster, and walking becomes tiring. That’s why acclimatisation is crucial. Acclimatisation means gradually exposing the body to higher altitudes, forcing it to adjust, and then returning to lower altitudes to recuperate, sometimes all in the same day.
Q: Thorong La Pass is one of the most iconic destinations on the Annapurna Circuit. Can you share your experience of reaching the summit, what stood out to you the most, and any memorable moments from the journey?
A: Indeed, Thorong La Pass is considered the highest point on the Annapurna Circuit trek and the highest pass in the world at 5,416m. The pass offers views of Annapurna I Peak (8,091m), Gangapurna Peak (7,455m), and Dhaulagiri Peak (8,167m), and it was historically a major trade route. It also holds significant spiritual importance for both Hindus and Buddhists due to the Muktinath Temple, considered a holy site by both religions. The base camp for Thorong La Pass at 4,900m was the last place where I slept in a bed and had a decent meal. The trek to Thorong La Pass was also the point when we realised we had become more solitary and stopped chatting in order to preserve energy as it is physically quite demanding.
Q: The final challenge, and the most taxing and dangerous, was climbing Tilicho Peak. What is the difference between trekking and climbing a mountain slightly over 7,000m high?
A: Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulty. All the training I did previously was in preparation for Mt. Pumori (7,161m), which is a Grade 3 mountain. Tilicho Peak is a D+/Grade 4 in difficulty. Trekking requires the ability to walk long distances in moderate to difficult terrain. Climbing requires special equipment. No one can trek Tilicho Peak due to its verticality—you can only climb it, which requires good physical fitness, mental resilience, and the ability to manage technical gear (helmet, alpine ice axe, mountaineering harness with loops, crampons, ropes, carabiners, trekking poles, etc.), navigate hazardous terrain made of snow, ice, and rocks, use focus and problem-solving skills, and have determination. The experience on the last leg of the expedition was, as expected, the most mentally challenging and dramatic one.
Q: What was the journey like to reach your highest point on Tilicho Mountain?
A: We had to reach three altitude camps at 5,800m, 6,200m, and 6,800m. To reach the first camp, we had to cross the ridge of the north shoulder, climbing on steep ice, some exposed ridges, and a few crevasses. To reach Camp 2, we had to cross a 500m long, 55-degree steep snowfield, followed by a 40-degree slope, which we traversed with fixed ropes, to then reach Camp 3. The whole experience was a mix of agony and ecstasy. Agony, because with each 100m gain in altitude came the pain of harsh weather conditions and low oxygen levels, making it almost impossible to sleep in tents fully dressed with an oxygen mask. Ecstasy, because standing among the mountains, God’s creation felt more meaningful and profound. Each step heightened my awareness of Him, my limits, my strength, and my connection with God and everything around me. I believe that the entire experience reshaped my understanding of God, the world, and my consciousness. It’s something words can never fully capture… an experience that transforms your soul in ways only the mountains can. Once we arrived at Camp 3 at 6,800m, only five of the 13 who initially started the final leg made it. We had an early start at 3am for the last push to reach the peak, but after three nights without sleep, lack of oxygen, and the instant noodles I had for breakfast, my body ceased to respond. I couldn’t put one foot in front of the other anymore, so I was taken to Camp 1 to recover, claiming just over 6,900m as my victory.
Pastor Claudiu, thank you for taking the time to share your unique experience. As Harley King beautifully put it, “May your dreams be larger than mountains, and may you have the courage to scale their summits.”
The Nepal Expedition has served as a fundraising initiative for the rebuilding of Glasgow Church, where Pastor Claudiu is a minister. The GoFundMe page will close on December 15th.
To support this campaign, please visit https://gofund.me/4ceb7579
In addition to the expedition, Pastor Claudiu’s mission work has had a lasting impact in Nepal. During his ADRA UK mission trip in 2015, he helped rebuild a library at a public secondary school in Kathmandu. While there, he learned that many parents were unable to afford the fees for their children's education. In response, Pastor Claudiu shared this need with the Irvine Church, and together they funded the education of 12 students, ensuring they could finish secondary school. In September, Pastor Claudiu revisited the school and met seven of those students who had successfully completed their studies.
This follow-up interview with Pastor Claudiu Popescu delves into his recent 35-day Himalayan expedition, where he shares insights from his challenging journey, including his trek to Tilicho Lake, the ascent of Thorong-La Pass, and the climb of Tilicho Peak. He also reflects on the spiritual and personal transformations that took place during the expedition.
“Behind every triumphant mountaintop victory, there’s always a steep climb filled with many prayers, tears, sweat, blisters, and often much passing of time.” – Melody Mason, My Single Joy.
In a previous interview before his departure, Pastor Claudiu Popescu shared his plans to trek to Everest Base Camp (5,346 m), climb Mera Peak (6,476 m), and take on Mount Pumori (7,161 m). In this follow-up interview, he shares highlights from his experience trekking in the Himalayas.
Q: After over a year of preparation, training, and careful planning for the highly anticipated expedition itinerary, the first week in Nepal didn’t quite go as planned. What happened, and how did you respond to seeing your plans fall apart?
A: Exactly, a few hours after we landed in Kathmandu, it started to rain. What I initially thought would be a shower quickly intensified into heavy torrential rain that lasted for three days and caused the most severe flooding in the last 50 years. Even the locals told us they had never seen anything like it, with many casualties and much of the infrastructure being destroyed. The weather had a major impact on our plans, as we had to delay our flight to Lukla Airport, the starting point of our expedition into the Everest region, for four days. We learned that not every flight or helicopter that takes off can land in Lukla. Weather conditions can change rapidly, and many flights are either cancelled or turn back after failing to land. I spent four days in an overcrowded airport, full of stranded people, all hoping to catch a flight. Eventually, we were able to board a helicopter, but unfortunately, it couldn’t land due to high winds. The feeling of defeat began to undermine our team’s enthusiasm.
Q: After several attempts to stick to your original plans, things had to change. What alternative route did you ultimately take for your expedition?
A: After losing four buffer days, some members of our team realised that we were running out of time if we didn’t look for an alternative. It was difficult as some of us wanted to wait a few more days to catch a flight, while others didn’t have the luxury of extra time. Our guide gave us the option of an equally challenging route on the Annapurna Circuit, crossing a unique combination of high altitude, varied landscapes, climates, ecosystems, and mountain ranges, as well as many different Nepali communities, making it a photographer’s paradise. The biggest reward would be reaching Tilicho Lake at 4,919 m, the highest-altitude lake in the world, Thorong La Pass, considered the highest pass in the world at 5,416 m, and Tilicho Peak at 7,134 m.
Q: Life in the Himalayas must be very different from what we are used to here in Europe. What can you share about how people live, their occupations, and culture?
A: Indeed, it’s a totally different world. First, life in the Himalayan villages is rough due to the mountain terrain, which is prone to landslides, making it very difficult to build roads and grow crops. There is also a reliance on food brought from the lowlands by donkeys and yaks. However, it is rich in culture and tradition. Nepal’s population is predominantly Hindu in the main cities and lowlands, and Buddhist in the Himalayan/Tibet region, but I also came across a significant Muslim community. People live very simple lives, but they seem content and happy. In five weeks, I didn’t encounter a single beggar. What really intrigued me, even during my first visit to Nepal with ADRA UK in 2015, was how safe I felt, even in large cities like Kathmandu. Nepal is considered one of the poorest countries in the world, with very poor infrastructure, low wages, and high unemployment. In the Western world, we usually link poverty with high crime rates, but this is not the case in Nepal. I was astonished by the large number of solo trekkers from around the world who chose Nepal for its safety. It’s a culture that respects other religions and is not known for religious conflict.
Q: What is the main religion in Nepal and how do people in the Himalayas worship?
A: As I mentioned previously, Hinduism is the main religion, with pockets of Muslims, Christians, and animists, as Nepal is considered a Hindu state. However, most people living in the Himalayan region are Buddhist. One interesting feature of life in Nepal is that, as imposed by the government, there is a six-day working week with only Saturday off. Sunday is a regular working day. Many people attend temple or church services on the Saturdays.
Q: Your first challenge was to reach Tilicho Lake. How long did it take you to get there, and what was the most challenging part of the experience?
A: The first leg of the expedition was the departure from Kathmandu to Besisahar, the starting point of our trek, at 760m into the Himalayas. We then trekked to Chame, Manang, and up to Tilicho Lake at 4,919m. The trek took about 10 days. This part was the mildest and most serene in terms of terrain. We trekked roughly 8-9 hours per day, starting at 7 a.m., with a 1-hour lunch break. En route to 4,900m, we stayed in so-called tea houses. Some of them were pretty decent, with beds and common toilets, where we could order set dishes like porridge, eggs, dal bhat (the traditional Nepali dish — Dal Bhat power 24 hours!), pasta, and soup, and also have a shower (which, at best, was lukewarm but mostly ice-cold). As we began to reach higher altitudes, the standards of the tea houses began to decline. The biggest challenge of the first leg of the expedition was getting closer to Tilicho Lake. As we gained altitude, the weather became more unpredictable, the temperature dropped suddenly, and the wind cut through our thick down jackets. The golden rule for a successful ascent is to be at the peak by sunrise when the wind is milder, and you can absorb the quietness of the surroundings and witness the transition from darkness to light. This meant trekking from 3 a.m. on the last day of the ascent, but the experience was transformational.
Q: After completing Tilicho Lake, you had to rest and prepare for Thorong La Pass. One of the most important aspects of a successful expedition is being well acclimatised. What is acclimatisation, why is it important, and what did you do to ensure you were fit to continue your expedition?
A: Altitude sickness is the most common condition among climbers at high altitudes. The higher you climb, the harder it is for your body to get oxygen due to the fact that there is less of it at higher altitudes. The heart rate increases, you have to breathe faster and faster, and walking becomes tiring. That’s why acclimatisation is crucial. Acclimatisation means gradually exposing the body to higher altitudes, forcing it to adjust, and then returning to lower altitudes to recuperate, sometimes all in the same day.
Q: Thorong La Pass is one of the most iconic destinations on the Annapurna Circuit. Can you share your experience of reaching the summit, what stood out to you the most, and any memorable moments from the journey?
A: Indeed, Thorong La Pass is considered the highest point on the Annapurna Circuit trek and the highest pass in the world at 5,416m. The pass offers views of Annapurna I Peak (8,091m), Gangapurna Peak (7,455m), and Dhaulagiri Peak (8,167m), and it was historically a major trade route. It also holds significant spiritual importance for both Hindus and Buddhists due to the Muktinath Temple, considered a holy site by both religions. The base camp for Thorong La Pass at 4,900m was the last place where I slept in a bed and had a decent meal. The trek to Thorong La Pass was also the point when we realised we had become more solitary and stopped chatting in order to preserve energy as it is physically quite demanding.
Q: The final challenge, and the most taxing and dangerous, was climbing Tilicho Peak. What is the difference between trekking and climbing a mountain slightly over 7,000m high?
A: Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulty. All the training I did previously was in preparation for Mt. Pumori (7,161m), which is a Grade 3 mountain. Tilicho Peak is a D+/Grade 4 in difficulty. Trekking requires the ability to walk long distances in moderate to difficult terrain. Climbing requires special equipment. No one can trek Tilicho Peak due to its verticality—you can only climb it, which requires good physical fitness, mental resilience, and the ability to manage technical gear (helmet, alpine ice axe, mountaineering harness with loops, crampons, ropes, carabiners, trekking poles, etc.), navigate hazardous terrain made of snow, ice, and rocks, use focus and problem-solving skills, and have determination. The experience on the last leg of the expedition was, as expected, the most mentally challenging and dramatic one.
Q: What was the journey like to reach your highest point on Tilicho Mountain?
A: We had to reach three altitude camps at 5,800m, 6,200m, and 6,800m. To reach the first camp, we had to cross the ridge of the north shoulder, climbing on steep ice, some exposed ridges, and a few crevasses. To reach Camp 2, we had to cross a 500m long, 55-degree steep snowfield, followed by a 40-degree slope, which we traversed with fixed ropes, to then reach Camp 3. The whole experience was a mix of agony and ecstasy. Agony, because with each 100m gain in altitude came the pain of harsh weather conditions and low oxygen levels, making it almost impossible to sleep in tents fully dressed with an oxygen mask. Ecstasy, because standing among the mountains, God’s creation felt more meaningful and profound. Each step heightened my awareness of Him, my limits, my strength, and my connection with God and everything around me. I believe that the entire experience reshaped my understanding of God, the world, and my consciousness. It’s something words can never fully capture… an experience that transforms your soul in ways only the mountains can. Once we arrived at Camp 3 at 6,800m, only five of the 13 who initially started the final leg made it. We had an early start at 3am for the last push to reach the peak, but after three nights without sleep, lack of oxygen, and the instant noodles I had for breakfast, my body ceased to respond. I couldn’t put one foot in front of the other anymore, so I was taken to Camp 1 to recover, claiming just over 6,900m as my victory.
Pastor Claudiu, thank you for taking the time to share your unique experience. As Harley King beautifully put it, “May your dreams be larger than mountains, and may you have the courage to scale their summits.”
The Nepal Expedition has served as a fundraising initiative for the rebuilding of Glasgow Church, where Pastor Claudiu is a minister. The GoFundMe page will close on December 15th.
To support this campaign, please visit https://gofund.me/4ceb7579
In addition to the expedition, Pastor Claudiu’s mission work has had a lasting impact in Nepal. During his ADRA UK mission trip in 2015, he helped rebuild a library at a public secondary school in Kathmandu. While there, he learned that many parents were unable to afford the fees for their children's education. In response, Pastor Claudiu shared this need with the Irvine Church, and together they funded the education of 12 students, ensuring they could finish secondary school. In September, Pastor Claudiu revisited the school and met seven of those students who had successfully completed their studies.
